Nigeria 2: ABBA and Awo

While working in the Special Collections at the University of Ibadan, a fellow researcher told me about a library in the nearby town of Ikenne. This library, housed at the compound of the late politician Obafemi Awolowo (1909-1987), contained Awolowo's papers from the 1930s until his death. Awolowo, or "Awo," was the fierce rival of the man I am studying (Nnamdi Azikiwe--more on him in future posts), and an extremely capable politician. A hero among the Yoruba people, Awolowo secured his place in western Nigeria's memory when he served as the western region's premier from 1954 to 1959, implementing universal primary education, universal health care, and significant housing schemes. The neighborhood where I stayed in Ibadan had been built under his administration in the 1950s, and the houses still stood tall. More importantly, the legacy of health care and literacy among the Yoruba people, and the entire population of western Nigeria, helped make it the strongest economic area of the country for most of the past 60 years.

I enjoyed the opportunity to visit his home, which is well maintained, and I was pleased to find his papers in good order (if not terribly well secured). It is a rich collection which helped my research and will help many others.

Sopolu Library at Awo's compound (named for his grandfather)

Mausoleum containing Awo's remains.

Small museum on Awo's compound; sadly it remains closed most of the year.

Just as pleasant as the library itself was my trip to and from Ikenne. The drive from Ibadan only took about an hour each way, and the roads were pretty good except for a few bumpy patches. But I wouldn't have been able to navigate any of it on my own; thankfully I had a great driver recommended by one of my faculty mentors and Aunty Chris, my host. Mr. Taiwo was a delight, but like many young Nigerians, he is struggling to get by despite an incredible work ethic. (That is something you should know about Nigerians: they are always working, or 'hustling' as they put it.) But in an oil-dependent economy, when the price of oil goes down, everybody goes down. I was glad I could provide at least some business to Taiwo.

I realize now I don't have a picture of Taiwo!

Much to my delight and bemusement, Taiwo loves the Swedish band ABBA. So we listened to ABBA's greatest hits to and from Ikenne, as Taiwo belted out the words to "Mamma Mia!," "Fernando," "Dancing Queen," and "Waterloo" all the way there and back again. (I first encountered this same album when I studied abroad in France, and my host mom would play it in the car as we drove around the Normand countryside. I vividly remember telling her what the English lyrics to "Waterloo" meant, at which she was mildly indignant.)

I've encountered it too many times to count, but throughout this journey I continue to find myself surprised at just how common much of global popular culture is, especially from Europe and the United States, from the omnipresence of the English Premier League and hip-hop to the Anglican liturgy and, yes, ABBA. So if you are ever parachuted into the middle of Nigeria, chances are that even if you couldn't speak to someone through a common language, you could communicate through some piece of popular culture. If all else fails, try ABBA.

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Today's clip comes from a strange little Youtube phenomenon, which posits that you can add Dire Straits' 1985 hit "Walk of Life" to any movie's ending to enhance (ruin) it. My favorite is from that great American romantic comedy, The Silence of the Lambs.